The dish appears in the Manual of Army Cooks from 1910, predating U.S. involvement in the first World War by seven years. The Navy has its own version, although its recipe is a bit more refined, namely due to the inclusion of tomatoes (along with other fresh veg), fresh ground beef, and nutmeg. The first published recipe for S.O.S is the Army version, which calls for chipped beef, a dried meat product perfectly designed for the battlefield. Indeed, the version of S.O.S. in the Manual for Army Cooks, 1910 also uses evaporated milk, which would have been easier to transport, shelf stable, and (at the time) safer to consume than fresh milk. In fact, in a pinch the entire dish can be made from the pantry if fresh butter is removed in favor of a more shelf-stable fat (such as lard) and beef stock is substituted with water.
Ingredients:
- 4 oz butter
- 4 Tab flour
- 1 c milk
- 1 c beef stock
- 3 oz package of chipped beef, cut into about 1 inch ribbons
- 2 slices of white bread
- Black pepper to taste
- Chives (optional)
Directions:
- Cut chipped beef into ribbons. Trust me, don’t eat it straight out of the package. Way too salty!
- Over medium high heat, sear the beef for about 2 mins – until the edges start to curl. .
- Remove from the pan and put to the side.
- Toast 2 slices of white bread.
- In the same skillet as you seared the beef, melt the butter.
- Once melted, whisk in the flour a bit at a time, taking care not to let it clump. This is your roux.Be sure to thoroughly incorporate the flour. No lumps!
- Once the roux gets a bit bubbly (about five minutes), whisk in the milk and beef stock.
- Be patient. It will thicken. The sauce should thicken in 5-10 minutes.
- Add the beef to heat through.
- Crack in 2-3 good grinds of black pepper. This is one of the few times in cooking that you should not season with salt.
- Plate the toast and pour the creamed chipped beef evenly over your “shingles.”
- Garnish with some finely chopped chives and enjoy with a fork and knife. It’s almost elegant.
Serves: 1-2
Source: War on the Rocks – The Foods of War
Note: Despite the dish’s unglamorous name, appearance, and origins, its culinary roots are actually quite French. The soul of S.O.S. is essentially a classic Béchamel, one of Auguste Escoffier’s five mother sauces. It can be “doctored” with hard boiled eggs, sauted mushrooms, parsley, green onions, and it becomes a nice brunch dish. Even fancier, serve it over brioche or biscuits.
