{"id":6992,"date":"2004-11-16T16:29:31","date_gmt":"2004-11-16T23:29:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp\/2004\/11\/16\/travelogue-2-3.html"},"modified":"2004-11-16T16:29:31","modified_gmt":"2004-11-16T23:29:31","slug":"travelogue_2_3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2004\/11\/16\/travelogue_2_3.html","title":{"rendered":"Travelogue #2"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Meetings in the morning at the Reading office &#8212; picked up by a nice Mercedes sedan to get there &#8212; and then in the afternoon at our London office (trip to the rail station in my staffer&#8217;s somewhat less luxurious Citroen).  Then touring about on my own, eating dinner, and returning to the hotel.  Random notes &#8230;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>I am not a railway traveller.  Never have been.  I remember my dad taking the train to commute to\/from Menlo Park when I was a wee lad, and I think we rode it once or twice in that context, but that&#8217;s it.  Oh, and I&#8217;ve taken the airport train from Gatwick to Vic Station.\n<p>So it&#8217;s a good thing Hans was with me buying my rail pass, otherwise I would have spent twice as much for something that went half as far.  As it was, for GBP 14.70 or so, I got a non-peak hours rail pass (Reading to <a href=\"http:\/\/www.networkrail.co.uk\/Stations\/stations\/Paddington\/Default.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">Paddington<\/a> and back), and unlimited Tube access. And I used both.<\/p>\n<li>The London office is just north of Fleet Street, tucked into some quiet office space between major thoroughfares.  That left me with plenty of options when I was wrapped up with my meetings at about 3.<\/p>\n<li>Can&#8217;t swing a dead cat without seeing big posters pushing for <a href=\"http:\/\/london2012.com\/en\" target=\"_blank\">London to be chosen for the Olympics in 2012<\/a>.  Indeed, the organizers delivered the proposal to the IOC today (according to innumerable news reports and newspaper headlines).  According to the local touts, London&#8217;s bid is the second-most likely to be chosen (behind Paris, but well ahead of Madrid, New York, and Moscow).<\/p>\n<li>I decided to go down to the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\">National Gallery<\/a>, as I&#8217;d not been there before.  And it turned out to be a nice way to pass a few hours of the afternoon.<\/p>\n<p>First off, I was way overdressed.  Sports jacket, plus overcoat, plus hat.  Sling a big heavy briefcase over my shoulder, and it made for some nice calorie-burning exercise.  Fortunately, they had a coat room at the National Gallery, so I could divest myself of most of it.  I arrived at <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Trafalgar_Square\" target=\"_blank\">Trafalgar Square<\/a>, took some pictures, and went in.<\/p>\n<p>The National Gallary holds part of the British National Collection, particularly the Western European stuff (though most of the British stuff is at the Tate Britain).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"raphael_st-catherine.jpg\" title=\"St Catherine of Alexandria, by Raphael.  I've seen this in person!\" src=\"https:\/\/www.hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/images\/raphael_st-catherine.jpg\" width=\"200\" height=\"257\" class=\"right\" \/>At this point (and until January), they are running a very nice <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/exhibitions\/raphael\/default.htm\" target=\"_blank\">exhibition of art by Raphael<\/a>.  Gorgeous stuff (and very heavy crowds, even on a Tuesday afternoon).  <\/p>\n<p>The rest of the gallery was much less crowded (and free, though a donation is recommended).  Some <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/National_Gallery,_London\" target=\"_blank\">highlights<\/a>:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Ortolano&#8217;s <em><a href=\"http:\/\/cgfa.sunsite.dk\/o\/p-ortolano1.htm\" target=\"_blank\">St Sebastian with Sts Roch and Demetrius<\/a><\/em>.  I just love the expression on the guy on the right, St Demetrius (who was martyred, according to the little sign by the painting, for being too zealous at converting pagans).\n<li>I did some major study of <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Desiderius_Erasmus\" target=\"_blank\">Desiderius Erasmus<\/a> in college, so to actually see <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mezzo-mondo.com\/arts\/mm\/holbein\/HOH001.html\" target=\"_blank\">Holbein&#8217;s painting of him<\/a> (which is the standard image that every text uses) was pretty cool.  Indeed, that&#8217;s one of the neat things about going to major galleries like this &#8212; spotting a painting you know well from prints, and marveling that it&#8217;s &#8230; well &#8230; a <em>real thing<\/em>.   And often (though not always) much larger than you thought.<\/p>\n<li>I also loved Holbein&#8217;s <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/work?workNumber=NG2475\" target=\"_blank\">Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan<\/a><\/em>, especially when you realize that it was the 16th Century equivalent of a Personal Ad &#8212; a very large portrait painted of Christina as part of the negotiations with Henry VIII to marry her off to him after Jane Seymour&#8217;s death (Henry turned down the girl, but kept the painting).<\/p>\n<p>(It&#8217;s also kind of amusing that the entanglement of European royalty made her both a Princess of Denmark and the Duchess of Milan &#8212; and that she eventually died the Regent of Lorraine.)<\/p>\n<li>And then there&#8217;s the, um, interesting <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/work?workNumber=NG651\" target=\"_blank\">Allegory with Venus and Cupid<\/a><\/em> by Bronzino.  Though even the detail shot doesn&#8217;t show it, having seen it in person, she is, indeed, slipping him some tongue.  Right.  Remember, kids &#8212; you can always get away with painting risque subjects by calling them &#8220;Art.&#8221;  Or &#8220;Art after a Classical Theme.&#8221;  Or &#8220;Allegory.&#8221;  Or all three.<\/p>\n<li>They have a nice collection of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=1&#038;artistName=TITIAN&#038;indexLetter=T\" target=\"_blank\">Titian<\/a>s.  I liked his <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.artchive.com\/artchive\/t\/titian\/titian_schiavona.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">La Schiavona<\/a><\/em>, even if it&#8217;s one of his more understated works (in fact, that&#8217;s why I like it).  They have a few of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=2&#038;artistName=RUBENS%2C%20Peter%20Paul&#038;indexLetter=R\" target=\"_blank\">Rubens<\/a>&#8216; works, too, including the amazingly brutal <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/work?workNumber=L949\" target=\"_blank\">Massacre of the Innocents<\/a><\/em> &#8212; which was only recently discovered (and fetched a <a href=\"http:\/\/news.bbc.co.uk\/2\/hi\/entertainment\/2119451.stm\" target=\"_blank\">record GBP 49.5MM at auction<\/a> &#8212; $76.5MM &#8212; two years ago); it will be <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cronaca.com\/archives\/000442.html\" target=\"_blank\">moving to Canada<\/a> in a few years.  (Even the enlarged shot fails to show some of the disturbingly awful details.)<\/p>\n<li>Oh, and they have a nice room full of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=3&#038;artistBatchIndex=1&#038;artistName=REMBRANDT&#038;indexLetter=R\" target=\"_blank\">Rembrandt<\/a>s, a small show of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/exhibitions\/degas\/default.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Degas<\/a>, and a few noteworthy pieces by such unknowns as <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=1&#038;artistName=VAN%20GOGH%2C%20Vincent&#038;indexLetter=V\" target=\"_blank\">Van Gogh<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=5&#038;artistName=MONET%2C%20Claude%2DOscar&#038;indexLetter=M\" target=\"_blank\">Monet<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=1&#038;artistName=LEONARDO%20da%20Vinci&#038;indexLetter=L\" target=\"_blank\">da Vinci<\/a>, and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalgallery.org.uk\/cgi-bin\/WebObjects.dll\/CollectionPublisher.woa\/wa\/artistWorks?searchField=&#038;searchString=&#038;workBatchIndex=0&#038;artistBatchIndex=2&#038;artistName=SEURAT%2C%20Georges&#038;indexLetter=S\" target=\"_blank\">Seurat<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>And I got to see them all.  Neener-neener-neener.<\/p>\n<p>My only regret was not being able to see them with Margie.  That was a mistake.  Next time &#8230;<\/p>\n<li>Cutest thing I saw was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk\/compass\/ixbin\/hixclient.exe?_IXDB_=compass&#038;_IXFIRST_=1&#038;_IXMAXHITS_=1&#038;_IXSPFX_=graphical\/full\/&#038;$+with+all_unique_id_index+is+$=OBJ860&#038;submit-button=summary\" target=\"_blank\">this piece<\/a> which was on loan for the Raphael exhibit.  Just too fun.<\/ul>\n<li>Swung past the gift shop, then exited the museum, re-laden with possessions.  Took some pictures around Trafalgar Square, had a nice phonecon with Margie (it is, indeed, nice to be able to do that), and then tried to figure out where to eat dinner.<\/p>\n<p>Eating out in a strange city alone is just no fun. I eventually decided (based on my Zagats) on a place down in Knightsbridge (since I had a Tube pass) &#8212; only to discover I&#8217;d chosen the wrong station (should have chosen Sloane Square), and ended up walking about a mile or so &#8212; which I needed, to be sure, though my new shoes didn&#8217;t agree.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.tragusholdings.com\/CafeRouge.asp?Rest_id=6\" target=\"_blank\">Oriel<\/a> was listed in Zagats as &#8220;cheerful,&#8221; &#8220;buzzy,&#8221; &#8220;neighborly,&#8221; with decent Mediterranean food.  It was also listed as a recommended place for single dining.  <\/p>\n<p>On the plus side, the food was pretty  good, the service was fast (if a little stand-offish), and the prices reasonable for being a somewhat upscale sort of establishment.  The only real downside (aside from a roquette salad that insisted on spattering everything in sight with vinaigrette) was that it was very crowded.  I was in the &#8220;non-smoking&#8221; room, mostly 2-person tables crammed chockablock into the salon.    I&#8217;d go again &#8212; but I wouldn&#8217;t go out of my way to return.<\/p>\n<p>Looking at various online reviews, Oriel is evidently a place for all the hoity-toity and posh Knightsbridge types to hob-nob.  I didn&#8217;t see any &#8212; but it&#8217;s just as well I was in my sports jacket and tie, rather than in a knit shirt and jeans.<\/p>\n<li>I wasn&#8217;t sure when I could use my (off-peak) train pass back, at 7 or 7:30.  I decided to take a post-dinner detour.  But where to go?  At last, not wanting the same pictures of the same dozen or so monuments, I hit on the idea (looking at the Tube map) of going to Whitechapel and photographing some of the churches there at night.  Very spooky Jack-the-Rippery sort of stuff.<\/p>\n<p>Hrm.<\/p>\n<p>Exiting Whitechapel station, a Metropolitan Police sign warned politely that muggings took place in the area, so Be Careful.<\/p>\n<p>Swell.<\/p>\n<p>Looked up and down the street.  No churches in sight.  Walked down the block one way, walked back, walked down the block the other way, walked back.  No churches.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a poorish immigrant neighborhood &#8212; still.  Obviously, in the Ripper days, it wasn&#8217;t anyplace too hot.  On my short walk (sticking to the well-lit, wide, well-populated sidewalk), I passed by a monument to Edward VII from his loyal Jewish Subjects of East London (1911).  Today its a mostly Pakistani neighborhood, judging from the shops &#8212; lots small run-down shops, lots of halal (think &#8220;kosher&#8221; in Islam) restaurants and food stores (&#8220;Whitechapel Halal Fried Chicken&#8221; &#8212; I kid you not &#8212; and I&#8217;d have taken a picture if I hadn&#8217;t been a tad apprehensive about looking like more of a wandering tourist than I was).<\/p>\n<p>I didn&#8217;t feel in fear of my life, really.  But I didn&#8217;t feel particularly comfortable, either.  So I hopped back onto the Tube &#8230;<\/p>\n<li>&#8230; , made my way to Paddington Station (failing to spot any marmalade-sticky bears), and headed back to Reading.  <\/p>\n<p>As advised, I took one of the direct trains to Reading, rather than the local which stops about a dozen times.  I was rather proud of myself for finding my way to the platform, and to the proper (standard fare) seats.<\/p>\n<li>Upon arrival at Reading Station, I &#8230; took a taxi.<\/p>\n<p>Now, for those of you who live in Big Cities &#8212; e.g., New Yorkers &#8212; this may not sound like a big deal.  I, on the other hand, have used a cab maybe three, four time sin my life.  What I know of cabs is what I&#8217;ve seen on TV, I&#8217;ll be the first to admit.<\/p>\n<p>Well, it worked out okay.  Fortunately, I didn&#8217;t have to whistle to attract his attention, just walk up to the front of the taxi queue.  GBP 10 back to the hotel.  Nice, roomy &#8220;London Cab&#8221; sort of vehicle.  No worries, no being taken for an inflated distance, it all worked great.  <\/ol>\n<\/p>\n<p>Tomorrow &#8230; Scotland.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Meetings in the morning at the Reading office &#8212; picked up by a nice Mercedes sedan to get there &#8212; and then in the afternoon at our London office (trip&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[21,26],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6992","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-job-jollies","category-travel"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":31709,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2012\/12\/11\/so-this-was-my-morning.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":0},"title":"So this was my morning","author":"***Dave","date":"Tue 11-Dec-12 9:20am","format":false,"excerpt":"Because some yahoo decided to walk on the light rail bridge over Santa Fe, my commute ended up running 2 hours (indeed, roughly the time frame of the entire incident, 6 a.m. to 8 a.m.). \u00a0I'm glad he was not seriously injured, but\u00a0I hope he servers some trespass time in\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;~PlusPosts&quot;","block_context":{"text":"~PlusPosts","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/blogging\/plusposts"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":27517,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2012\/04\/23\/light-rail-still-requires-automobiles-you-know.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":1},"title":"Light rail still requires automobiles, you know","author":"***Dave","date":"Mon 23-Apr-12 10:25am","format":false,"excerpt":"This strikes me as very shortsighted, given that, even with a much larger distribution of parking lots on the existing LTR lines in Denver that there are consistent complaints about insufficient parking. Not only will a lack of adequate parking cause neighborhood problems, but it will, I assure you, reduce\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;~PlusPosts&quot;","block_context":{"text":"~PlusPosts","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/blogging\/plusposts"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":14577,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2009\/04\/18\/the-belgian-train-stations-are-alive.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":2},"title":"The Belgian Train Stations are alive &#8230;","author":"***Dave","date":"Sat 18-Apr-09 12:52am","format":false,"excerpt":"... with The Sound of Music ... \u00a0 Cool.\u00a0 Apparently the music number, staged at the Antwerp central rail station, was part of some reality show\u00a0in Belgium.\u00a0 I need to find our copy of\u00a0The Sound of Music\u00a0and share the original with Katherine. I think she'd enjoy it.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Movies&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Movies","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/media\/media-movies"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":33691,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2013\/05\/09\/the-case-of-the-notification-that-wasnt.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":3},"title":"The Case of the Notification That Wasn&#39;t","author":"***Dave","date":"Thu 9-May-13 2:13pm","format":false,"excerpt":"Earlier this week (as anyone who follows me on Twitter (https:\/\/twitter.com\/Three_Star_Dave) knows, I was on the E line of the Denver light rail, just south of Orchard station, when the power went out.Now, as horrible crises, this wasn't. \u00a0The outage lasted about 35-40 minutes, but it was fortunately a cool\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;~PlusPosts&quot;","block_context":{"text":"~PlusPosts","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/blogging\/plusposts"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":13624,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2008\/11\/03\/i_like_my_company.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":4},"title":"I like my company","author":"***Dave","date":"Mon 3-Nov-08 1:53pm","format":false,"excerpt":"A cool thing about moving to the downtown office was that I got to take the light rail into the office. That would be a cost savings in general, but...","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Job Jollies&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Job Jollies","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/job-jollies"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":23385,"url":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/2011\/11\/02\/the-true-cost-of-commuting.html","url_meta":{"origin":6992,"position":5},"title":"The true cost of commuting","author":"***Dave","date":"Wed 2-Nov-11 10:55am","format":false,"excerpt":"Y'know, even if my company stopped subsidizing my transit pass, it would still be worth it to take the light rail in. Especially since it gives me a 30-40 minutes of reading time to and from the office.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;~PlusPosts&quot;","block_context":{"text":"~PlusPosts","link":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/category\/blogging\/plusposts"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6992","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6992"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6992\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6992"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6992"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hill-kleerup.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6992"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}