So one of our Decision Points for the front yard re-landscape is trees. The plan has a large tree up top on the right corner of the patio, and two smaller trees, one in the middle off the sidewalk, the other in the upper left-hand corner by the driveway. Those are 20-30′ and 10-15′ range trees, respectively. Presumably the two smaller ones would be of the same species.
We got one suggestion from the landscapers, and have done some further research on our own. The Internet is both wonderful for this and a huge problem, as it can easily lead to option paralysis (plus trees height can vary in estimate tremendously, as you’ll see, sometimes based, I think, on region, other times on species (mis)identification.
So here’s what we have so far for options (we are, for reference, in USDA hardiness zone 5b, Sunset Zone 2). We consider recommendations from the CSU Extension and Plant Select to be particularly noteworthy.
The Big Tree
WASATCH (BIGTOOTH, ROCKY MOUNTAIN SUGAR, WESTERN SUGAR, CANYON) MAPLE
- Acer grandidentatum, Acer saccharum grandidentatum, A. g. Nutt.
- 20-30 ft (also given as 10-15 ft; 30-40 ft; 40-50 ft, 30 ft wide; “matures at 10-15 ft but is sometimes taller,” 36-72 ft, “rarely exceeds 25 ft,” 25 ft)
- USDA zones 3-7 (5a-8a?) (native Colorado 7000-8000 ft; grows from 4500)
- References: http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Trees/wasatch.htm, http://hort.ufl.edu/trees/ACEGRAA.pdf, http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=ACGR3, http://www.maple-trees.com/pages/canyon-maple.php, http://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/acegra/all.html, http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=ACGR3, http://www.coloradotrees.org/treeomonth/2000/jun_00.htm, http://selectree.calpoly.edu/treedetail_all.lasso?rid=53&-session=selectree:4C782D48162540FD2BUqw1A51B77, http://planetcrimson.net/index.php?topic=1726.0, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acer_grandidentatum
- Pros: Fall color, reasonably drought-tolerant (“survives in dry sites once established”); mdm growth rate; full sun; no litter problem; no surface roots problem; “outstanding ornamental,” no pests; not invasive; cold- and heat-hardy; holds up to storms; CSU Extension recommended
- Cons: Needs to be trained not to be a shrub; native moist, well-drained soil; size?
‘FRONTIER’ HYBRID ELM
- Ulmus (carpinfolia x parvifolia) ‘Frontier’
- 25 ft high, 15 ft wide (19y) (40h+, 30w) ;
- USDA 5-8
- References: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Newintro/frontie1.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulmus_%27Frontier%27, http://www.coloradotrees.org/treeomonth/2002/feb_02.htm, http://www.trimpines.com/treeoftheweek/frontierelm.htm, http://shade-trees.tripod.com/families/selections/frontier_elm.html, http://www.soonerplantfarm.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=35, http://www.urbanforestryservices.com/proffrontierelm.htm
- Pros: Mdm/fast-growing (12-18″/yr); urban/drought tolerant; disease-resistant; fall color; shade; songbirds; easy to transplant; tolerates poor soil; no seeds
- Cons: Avg water soil, well-drained; elm beetle resistance only moderate; potential winter damage
The Smaller Trees
TATARIAN MAPLE (“HOT WINGS”)
- Acer tataricum “GarAnn”
- 15-18 ft in 12y (30 ft; 20′ x 20′)
- USDA 4-10 (up to 7000′)
- References: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2035.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acer_tataricum, http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/a/acetat/acetat1.html, http://www.coloradonga.org/documents/Week_2_PS_Hot_Wings_Tartarian_Maple.pdf; http://129.82.181.23/plant_details.php?plant_number=81; http://www.freepatentsonline.com/PP15023.html
- Pros: Plant Select 2007; red seeds mid-summer; sturdy; tolerates dry soil; adaptable; good in cold; tolerates alkaline soils; sturdy; CSU Extension recommended
- Cons: Slow growth; invasive? (in Connecticut); seedlings
PRINCESS KAY (P. K. CANADA) PLUM
- Prunus nigra
- 15-20 ft high, 12-15 ft spread (10-15 ft) (20-30 FT)
- USDA 3-9 (7000 ft) (3a) (2-6) (4b-9)
- References: http://www.coloradotrees.org/treeomonth/2003/may_03.htm, http://www.mnpower.com/treebook/fact80.html, http://129.82.181.23/plant_details.php?comment=no&plant_number=32, http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pd_cd04.html, http://www.gulleygreenhouse.com/princess_kay_plum.html
- Pros: Plant Select 2000; spring blooms, fragrant; some fall color; moderate/fast-growing; minimum fruit; tolerates wind; wonderful name 🙂
- Cons: Root suckers; normal-moist soil, well-drained, not very drought-tolerant; potential insect/disease problems
BALI (EVANS, BALI EVANS, EVANS SOUR) CHERRY
- Prunus ‘Evans’, Prunus ‘Bali’, Prunus Cerasus ‘Evans’
- 10-15 ft, 10 ft wide, 2 ft from ground (15-20 ft)
- USDA Zone 3-8 (light soils. no, heavy soils. sandy soils, maybe. poor soils; if in good soil, plant grass on top)
- References: http://timberglade.typepad.com/outside/2007/08/evans-bali-cher.html, http://www.northscaping.com/Tools/LPS-Engine.asp?CCID=10000000&page=pdp&PID=338, http://www.northscaping.com/InfoZone/FS-0097/FS-0097.shtml, http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8664, http://www.canada.com/edmontonjournal/news/story.html?id=dca25d83-e932-4154-9a9d-898a17eeda44&k=21361, http://www.dnagardens.com/Articles/cherry_evans_tips.htm
- Pros: Sour cherries, good for cooking, birds; fall foliage; extremely hardy; showy fruit, slow to drop; mdm growth; 30y age; “thrives on neglect”; top-selling fruit tree in Canada; self-polinating; hardy (when drought-stressed in late summer); recommended by the landscaper.
- Cons: Well-drained; fruit do drop (mess); average to moist soil; suckering
So, that’s what we got. If anyone in the studio audience has some experience with any of these, I welcome hearing about it. My personal inclination (not yet agreed-upon with Margie) is the Wasatch Maple for the big tree, but I keep going in circles for the smaller ones.
The only one I have any experience with is the sour cherry, which we had in the backyard in southwestern Ontario, where I grew up. (A far kinder climate than here in the Eastern Townships of Quebec.)
I remember those wonderful sour cherries well. I tear up a little thinking about my stepmom’s amazing cherry pie and cherry jam.
We had problems with birds taking one nip out of every cherry and then leaving the fruit to rot on the tree. (I want to say that robins and starlings were the culprits, but I’m not sure about that.) The only way we could ensure a harvest was to wrap the tree in cheese cloth just before the fruit would turn red.
You might want to see if your have fruit napping birds where you live 🙂
P.S.–Thanks for posting before pix. I’m fascinated to see how the pros do it.
Elms don’t live terribly long. Out on the farm, we had a great yard full of elms that were planted when my dad was a kid. They started expiring just as we moved away, about 35 years later.
I’m not sure of the particular variety, though.
1. I’m not a huge cherry fan, though having a large supply of it would probably provoke some serious cooking/baking efforts by Margie, which would be likely change my mind about it. Or maybe we’ll just let the birds eat them. 🙂
2. I’m fascinated to see how the pros do it, too. I will plan on taking pictures, some to post immediately, some eventually.
3. It’s hard to be tooooo concerned right now about what the status of the trees are likely to be in 35 years, but it is, in fact, worth thinking about.