Not exactly intuitive, and not trivial to find in the current 0.7 “documentation,” but …
… if you are set by default to send plaintext messages in Thunderbird (which some folks feel very strongly is the Right Thing to Do, both the “plaintext” and “Thunderbird” parts), you can override the option to send HTML mail by doing a Shift-Click on the “Write” button in the Toolbar. (Yes, that option should be availabl e from the menu, but isn’t).
Conversely, if you’re set to do all e-mail in HTML format (evil non-security-oriented person that you are), you can send a plaintext message by … the same Shift-Click on the “Write” button.
This is all documented here.